Shoes, care & buying well

Shoes for a capsule wardrobe

Five pairs cover most lives. Which ones, in which colours, and how to adapt for climate and work.

Key points

  • Trainers, smart flat, ankle boot, sandal, weather pair.
  • One leather colour for shoes, belt and bag.
  • Rotate pairs so they dry between wears.

Shoes are where capsules often break: one pair that only goes with one outfit undoes the whole point. Five pairs cover most lives.

The five

PairDoesLook for
Everyday trainersWeekends, walking, casual workPlain leather or canvas in white, off-white or your base colour
Smart flatOffice, dinners, travelLoafer, derby or ballet flat in your leather colour
Ankle bootAutumn to spring, with jeans, skirts and trousersChelsea or simple zip boot, low heel
Warm-weather shoeSummerFlat leather sandal or espadrille
Weather or occasion pairRain, snow or eventsWaterproof boot, or a dressier shoe if your climate is mild

Choosing colours

  • Pick one leather colour (black, dark brown or tan) to match belts and bags.
  • White or off-white trainers work with almost every palette.
  • Navy and grey bases suit brown and tan; black bases suit black.

Adjusting

  • On your feet all day: two pairs of supportive shoes you can rotate, so each dries out between wears.
  • Formal office: two pairs of smart shoes instead of a second casual pair.
  • Hot climate: two sandals, no tall boots.

Make them last

Rotate pairs, use shoe trees or stuffed paper, re-heel early, and clean and condition leather a few times a season. See cost per wear and care.